Darratt Slouchy Beanie

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Darratt Slouchy Beanie is beginner friendly crochet pattern with perfect slouchiness, warmth, comfortable fit, and coziness! Get the free crochet pattern below or you can purchase ad-free, printable PDF on my Etsy, Lovecrafts, or Ravelry! Stitch chart is included!

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Now that summer is gone, it’s time to put on your fall/winter items! I have my first ever beanie pattern for you today!

Pin it now, crochet later

Inspiration

When I was in high school, I received a handmade beanie I received from my mother-figure person from the church. I used to wear it all the time, but the brim stretched out so much that it became too loose for me to wear. Fast forward years later, I bought a beanie from a kiosk. Since I bought a factory–machine-manufactured beanie, I thought it would last for very long time! (My concept for store-bought beanie is like perfect fit for everyone, and it has perfect brim stretch that will last almost forever.) However, it didn’t last that long. Probably like 1, 2 seasons. From these experiences, I wanted to make a beanie that will perfectly fit and does not fall off over long period of time.

Comfortable Fit Brim

There are actually quite many ways to make a brim in crochet beanie. What I see the most is working on the brim first then turn it 90 degrees to work on the edge of the brim and work up for the body. (You can check out my #HatNotHate roundup post to see all different kinds of beanies!) In this pattern, I chose slip stitch for the brim. Because slip stitch has the least height in crochet stitches, it’ll require more time to make than other stitches, but this brim stretches perfectly to fit your head. (It even fitted on my brother’s head who has 24″ head circumference!)

Making a Gauge for the Brim

I’ve made several beanies, and I don’t think I ever seen a gauge specifically for the brim. Usually, the brim and the body has different types of stitches, so I think it’s very useful if there’s 2 separate gauges for a beanie. It really depends on what beanie pattern you are using, but some patterns call out for only length (like mine) because everyone has different tension, and some call out for specific amount of rows (and the length is mentioned in the size note). For my Darratt Slouchy Beanie, there’s a gauge specifically for the brim so that you can have perfect fit for your head. (NOTE: my head is about 21.5″ circumference)

The Look

Especially for a slouchy beanie, I like wearing it right above my forehead and cover my ears. Because the brim is perfectly fitted to my head circumference, it does not fall off that easily even if you wear it pretty far back. Do you like slim brim height? Well, I purposefully made short brim height so that it balances out with the body stitch height (2 rounds using half double crochet and double crochet). As of the slouchiness, I’m really happy with the way it turned out! Overall, I really enjoyed designing and making my own beanie!

Testers’ Crochet Darratt Slouchy Beanies

I love all the colors that my testers chose! Combined photos of these crochet Darratt Slouchy Beanies remind me of Christmas! I cannot thank my testers enough for their work! (Testers: @merthemaker, @susanknittman, @_riotofcolor_, @hookbygrossa)

Grab an Ad-Free PDF

I’ve created nicely formatted PDF, and you can grab yours from my online shops! You can print them out and work on the couch, take notes, work offline, whatever you like!

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DARRATT SLOUCHY BEANIE CROCHET PATTERN

MATERIALS:

• Lion Brand Basic Stitch Anti-Pilling [1 skein = 185yd/170m, 3.5oz/100g, category 4 worsted weight]
  • 2 skeins of any color (photos shown: “Silver Heather”)
  • If you choose LB Basic Stitch Premium, you would only need 1 skein.
• 7mm crochet hook
• Tapestry needle
• Stitch marker (recommended)

PATTERN NOTES:

• Size – about 14.5″ (37cm) long/circumference brim when unstretched, 1.25” (3cm) tall brim, 9” (23cm) tall from bottom of the brim to top of body, 10.5” (27cm) at widest part
  • Beanie stretches to fit 21” ~ 24” (53cm ~ 61cm) head circumference.
• Gauge – [brim] 22 rows of SL ST FLO = 4”; [body] 14 stitch x 9 rows in pattern = 4″ x 4”
• You will be working in the round, turning every round for the body.
• Number in [ ] indicates the number of stitches in each row.
• Starting CH 1 and CH 2 DOES NOT count as a stitch throughout the pattern. 
• ”(type of a stitch) #” means to make an indicated stitch into the next indicated number of stitches.
  • Example: if pattern calls out for “HDC 4”, make 1 HDC in next 4 stitches
• ”#(type of a stitch)” means to make an indicated number of stitches into the same stitch.
  • Example: if pattern calls out for “2DC”, make 2 DC into the same stitch
• I recommend you put a stitch marker at the beginning and end of each round so you don’t miscount the stitches.
• You will need to know how many rows you made for the brim to do the calculation for the body. Please feel free to use any size hook to get the correct gauge for brim.

ABBREVIATIONS:

• CH – chain stitch
• SC – single crochet
• HDC – half double crochet
• DC – double crochet
• SL ST – slip stitch
• FLO – front loop only
• HDC2TOG – half double crochet 2 together

INSTRUCTIONS:

– BRIM –

CH 7

Row 1 – SL ST in 2nd CH from hook. SL ST across. Turn. [6]

Row 2 – CH 1. SL ST FLO across. Turn. [6]

Row 3 – Repeat Row 2 until you make 14.5” (37cm) long. [6] (NOTE: if your gauge is correct, it should be about 79 rows)

Join the ends together with SL ST FLO.

Rotate the brim to work on the row ends.

– BODY –

To have comfortable fit, fill in the numbers and do some calculations:

_____ (number of rows) 1.5 = _____ (number of SC you’ll make in Round 1 of the body)→ round your answer to closest multiple number of 6

(Example: 79 rows ÷ 1.5 = 52.7 → round up to 54; 74 rows ÷ 1.5 = 49.3 → round down to 48)

Round 1 – CH 1. SC the number you got from the calculation around the row ends of brim evenly. SL ST to 1st SC. Turn. (NOTE: try it on and see if it’s comfortable. If it’s tight/loose, add/reduce rows until it meets your comfortable fit)

Round 2 – CH 1. (HDC 5, 2HDC)* Repeat * around. SL ST to 1st HDC. Turn.

Round 3 – CH 2. (DC 6, 2DC)* Repeat * around. SL ST to 1st DC. Turn.

Round 4 – CH 1. HDC around. SL ST to 1st HDC. Turn.

Round 5 – CH 2. DC around. SL ST to 1st DC. Turn.

Round 6~9 – Repeat Round 4~5.

Round 10 – Repeat Round 4.

Round 11 – CH 2. (DC 7, 2DC)* Repeat * around. SL ST to 1st DC. Turn.

Round 12 – CH 1. (HDC 8, 2HDC)* Repeat * around. SL ST to 1st HDC. Turn.

Round 13 – CH 2. DC around. SL ST to 1st DC. Turn.

Round 14 – CH 1. HDC around. SL ST to 1st HDC. Turn.

Round 15~18 – Repeat Round 13~14. (NOTE: if you like a taller/shorter beanie, add more/eliminate rows here)

Round 19 – Repeat Round 13.

Round 20 – CH 1. (HDC 8, HDC2TOG)* Repeat * around. SL ST to 1st HDC.

Fasten off and leave a long tail for seaming. Weave through each stitch and cinch the top. 

Using the remainder of the tail, weave in criss cross directions for tighter finish.

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I can’t wait to see your crochet Darratt Slouchy Beanie! Please tag me @tyinganend and use hashtag #tyinganend & #darrattslouchybeanie on Instagram so I can see your beautiful beanie!

Thank you for reading and happy crocheting!

This pattern is an original pattern by Tae of Tying An End. Please do not claim this pattern as your own. If you wish to share this pattern, please link to this pattern and do not copy and paste it on to your site. You may keep a copy for your own personal use but please do not sell the pattern or distribute it. Please see Disclosure & Terms of Use for more info.

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